Woman: AMERICAN PUBLIC TELEVISION PRESENTS THE SPLENDORS OF THE WORLD IN THE LIFELIKE REALITY OF HIGH DEFINITION TELEVISION.

HI.

I'M RUDY MAXA.

CHRISTMAS IN THE ALPS!

WHAT COULD BE MORE FESTIVE?

IF YOU'VE EVER DREAMED OF HEADING TO EUROPE FOR A WINTER HOLIDAY, COMPLETE WITH CRAFTS MARKETS AND ALPINE SNOW, WELL, WE'VE GOT A SHOW FOR YOU.

NEXT UP, IT'S CHRISTMAS IN SWITZERLAND ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Man: MAJOR CORPORATE SUPPORT FOR "SMART TRAVELS" IS PROVIDED BY EXPEDIA.COM, A TRAVEL WEB SITE THAT OFFERS TRAVELERS A VARIETY OF WAYS TO CREATE THE TRIP THEY'RE LOOKING FOR, INCLUDING FLIGHTS, HOTELS, AND VACATION PACKAGES... CAPTIONING MADE POSSIBLE BY U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION "SMART TRAVELS" IS A GRAND TOUR OF THE OLD WORLD-- THE PEOPLE, PLACES, SIGHTS, AND DISTINCTLY EUROPEAN FLAVORS.

OUR HOST IS TRAVEL WRITER AND COLUMNIST RUDY MAXA, PUBLIC RADIO'S ORIGINAL SAVVY TRAVELER.

NOW TIPS, TRIPS, AND SECRET PLACES ON "SMART TRAVELS."

Maxa: THE DAYS ARE GROWING SHORTER AND CHILLIER; PEOPLE BUNDLE UP AGAINST THE WINTER COLD.

BUT THERE'S NOTHING THAT BRIGHTENS DARK DECEMBER DAYS MORE THAN GLITTERING CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS, WINTER SPORTS, AND HOLIDAY CHEER.

IT'S CHRISTMASTIME IN EUROPE, AND SWITZERLAND HAS A SPECIAL GLOW.

I'M READY FOR HOT SPICED CIDER AND GINGERBREAD, HAND-MADE ORNAMENTS, AND CHRISTMAS CAROLS.

SWITZERLAND IS THE PERFECT PLACE FOR A WINTER VACATION.

HERE YOU CAN SPEND DAYS BROWSING CHEERY CHRISTMAS MARKETS, HEAD TO THE SKI SLOPES FOR ICY THRILLS, AND WARM UP TO THE DISTINCTIVE HOLIDAY TRADITIONS OF THE SWISS.

THIS TRIP, WE'LL CHECK OUT CHRISTMAS CUSTOMS ACROSS SWITZERLAND.

WE'LL BEGIN IN THE GERMAN-SPEAKING PART OF THE COUNTRY, IN THE LITTLE TOWN OF BREMGARTEN, TAKE IN BUSY ZURICH, AND THEN VISIT MEDIEVAL EINSIEDELN.

LATER, IT'S SWITZERLAND WITH A FRENCH TWIST WHEN WE VISIT LAKE GENEVA AND THE CITIES OF MONTREUX, LAUSANNE, AND GENEVA.

IF YOU'VE NEVER VISITED EUROPE IN WINTER, YOU MAY BE WONDERING IF THERE ARE ANY SPECIAL AIR TRAVEL CONCERNS.

WELL, WITH THE EFFICIENT SWISS TRANSPORTATION SYSTEM, INCLUDING ZURICH'S NEWLY RENOVATED AIRPORT, TRAVEL DURING WINTER MONTHS ISN'T A PROBLEM.

THERE ARE SEVERAL EASY PORTS OF ENTRY INTO SWITZERLAND.

WE CHOSE ZURICH, BECAUSE IT'S A MAJOR HUB AND THERE ARE LOTS OF CONVENIENT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE.

FOR EXAMPLE, SWISS, THE COUNTRY'S MAJOR AIRLINE HAS MANY DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM THE U.S., AND IT'S EASY TO BOOK TICKETS ON-LINE.

[MAN YODELING] OUR FIRST STOP IS BREMGARTEN, A LITTLE TOWN STRAIGHT OUT OF THE MIDDLE AGES AND JUST 10 MILES FROM ZURICH AIRPORT.

[YODELING CONTINUES] SINCE IT'S OFF THE TOURIST TRACK, BREMGARTEN IS UNFAMILIAR TO MOST VISITORS, BUT IT'S POPULAR AMONG THE SWISS FOR ITS WONDERFUL CHRISTMAS MARKET.

NO CARS ARE ALLOWED IN BREMGARTEN'S BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED OLD TOWN.

THIS HAS BEEN A LIVELY TRADING CENTER SINCE A HAPSBURG EMPEROR GRANTED IT CITY STATUS NEARLY 800 YEARS AGO.

YOU'LL FIND CHRISTMAS MARKETS THROUGHOUT EUROPE.

IN SWITZERLAND, THEY'RE AS MUCH A PART OF THE HOLIDAY TRADITION AS CHRISTMAS TREES, CHOCOLATES, AND ST. NICHOLAS.

[MEN'S CHOIR SINGING IN GERMAN] THEY COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES, FROM THE MONTH-LONG AFFAIRS IN BIG CITIES, TO SMALLER WEEKEND EVENTS IN TOWNS LIKE THIS ONE.

WHILE THERE'S A CERTAIN SIMILARITY TO THESE MARKETS, EACH OFFERS ITS OWN SPECIAL TOUCHES.

[YODELING] MY FRIEND ANA AND I QUICKLY DISCOVERED THAT HOT SPICED WINE OR "GLUHWEIN" IS A STAPLE OF EVERY CHRISTMAS MARKET.

YOU'LL ALSO FIND BRATWURST AND BAKERY ITEMS, AS WELL AS PLENTY OF MUSIC AND ENTERTAINMENT-- SOME TRADITIONAL, AND SOME, WELL PERHAPS A BIT UNEXPECTED.

♪ PACK UP ALL MY CARE AND WOE ♪ ♪ HERE I GO SINGING LOW ♪ ♪ BYE, BYE, BLACKBIRD ♪ Maxa: AS WE HEAD BACK TO DOWNTOWN ZURICH, WE SEE THAT THE CITY IS ALIVE WITH CHRISTMAS SPIRIT.

SOPHISTICATED ZURICH IS THE COUNTRY'S CAPITAL AND ITS LARGEST CITY.

THIS IS SWITZERLAND'S BANKING AND FINANCIAL CENTER, AS WELL AS A SHOPPER'S DREAM.

THE FAMOUS BAHNHOFSTRASSE SHOPPING STREET IS DECKED OUT IN ALL ITS SEASONAL FINERY.

DECEMBER 6 IS THE ACTUAL FEAST DAY FOR THE HISTORIC ST. NICHOLAS, AND HERE IT'S CAUSE FOR SOME SERIOUS CELEBRATION.

IN ZURICH, ST. NICK HEADS THROUGH TOWN ON A CHRISTMAS STREETCAR.

SEVERAL SWISS CITIES FEATURE THE "MARLITRAM" OR "FAIRY TALE STREETCAR" THAT RUNS ONLY DURING THE MONTH BEFORE CHRISTMAS.

ST. NICHOLAS IS AT THE WHEEL, WHILE AN ANGEL TELLS FAIRY TALES TO THE KIDS.

ONLY CHILDREN ARE ALLOWED ON THE RIDE.

PARENTS ARE GIVEN A SPECIFIC TIME AND PLACE TO MEET THEIR CHILDREN AT THE END OF THE LINE.

JUST AS IN MOST PLACES IN THE WORLD, CHRISTMAS HERE IS TRULY A MAGICAL TIME FOR CHILDREN.

LITTLE ONES CAN FIND ALL SORTS OF SPECIAL ACTIVITIES THROUGHOUT THE SEASON.

AND IT'S FUN TO SEE HOW SWISS KIDS CELEBRATE THE HOLIDAYS.

♪ O TANNENBAUM ♪ ♪ O TANNENBAUM ♪ ♪ DU KANNST MIR SEHR GEFALLEN ♪ ♪ WIE OFT HAT NICHT ZUR WEIHNACHTSZEIT ♪ ♪ EIN BAUM VON DIR... ♪ Maxa: ONE OF ZURICH'S BELOVED TRADITIONS IS THE "SINGING CHRISTMAS TREE".

CHILDREN FROM BOTH THE CITY AND OUTLYING AREAS COME HERE TO CLIMB UP ON A PLATFORM BUILT IN THE SHAPE OF A TREE AND SING TRADITIONAL CAROLS.

♪ O TANNENBAUM... ♪ THE SINGING CHRISTMAS TREE PUTS IN AN APPEARANCE IN ZURICH'S OLD TOWN SEVERAL TIMES DURING THE WEEKS LEADING UP TO THE BIG HOLIDAY.

♪ DIE HOFFNUNG UND BESTANDIGKEIT ♪ ♪ GIBT TROST UND KRAFT ZU JEDER ZEIT... ♪ AND AS THE GATHERING CROWDS WILL ATTEST, IT'S A SMASH HIT WITH PASSERS-BY.

♪ DAS SOLL DEIN KLEID MICH LEHREN ♪ [APPLAUSE] Maxa: ANOTHER ACTIVITY THAT SWISS KIDS LOVE IS MAKING HAND-DIPPED CANDLES.

[CHILDREN CHATTERING] VENDORS SET UP LITTLE STANDS AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS IN THE CITY WHERE PEOPLE CAN COME TO DIP STRING INTO HOT WAX, BUILDING ENOUGH LAYERS TO FORM A CANDLE.

THE MELTED BEESWAX IS JUST AS DELICIOUS SMELLING AS IT IS FUN TO SHAPE, AND THE KIDS COME UP WITH SOME PRETTY INTERESTING CREATIONS.

THE TRADITION HERE IS THAT CHILDREN SURPRISE THEIR PARENTS WITH THEIR WAX MASTERPIECES ON CHRISTMAS EVE.

IN ZURICH, WE FIND THE BIGGEST CHRISTMAS MARKET IN THE COUNTRY, AN INDOOR EXTRAVAGANZA LOCATED IN THE CENTRAL TRAIN STATION.

THE NORMALLY BUSINESSLIKE STATION EXUDES HOLIDAY CHEER WHEN MORE THAN 140 DECORATED MARKET STANDS SPILL OVER WITH BOTH CONTEMPORARY FARE AND TRADITIONAL GIFTS.

CRYSTAL LOVERS MAY THINK THEY'RE HALLUCINATING WHEN THEY SEE THE MARKET'S CENTERPIECE: A 50-FOOT TALL CHRISTMAS TREE GLITTERING WITH MORE THAN 5,000 SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL ORNAMENTS.

THE EFFECT IS NOTHING SHORT OF DAZZLING!

A SHORT STROLL FROM THE TRAIN STATION WILL GET YOU OUT OF YOUR SHOES AND INTO A PAIR OF SKATES.

DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON, THE CASTLE-LIKE COURTYARD OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM BECOMES A WINTER WONDERLAND WHEN IT'S TRANSFORMED INTO AN ICE RINK.

WITH ITS ALPINE CLIMATE, SWITZERLAND IS LEGENDARY FOR WINTER SPORTS.

SKATING, SKIING, SNOWSHOEING, SLEDDING.

YOU NAME IT, THIS COUNTRY'S GOT IT.

THE SWISS ENTHUSIASTICALLY EMBRACE THE EXHILARATION OF WINTER SPORTS.

IN FACT, LAUSANNE IS THE PROUD HOME OF THE INTERNATIONAL OLYMPIC COMMITTEE.

AN ELEGANT PLACE TO WARM UP ICY TOES IS THE BAUR AU LAC HOTEL.

THIS IS ONE OF ZURICH'S MOST CHARMING ACCOMMODATIONS, AND IT'S BEEN OWNED BY THE SAME FAMILY SINCE IT OPENED IN 1844.

THE GRAND INTERIORS AND EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS MAKE THIS A TRUE INDULGENCE.

THROUGH THE YEARS, MANY PROMINENT GUESTS HAVE ENJOYED THE HOTEL'S IMPECCABLE SERVICE.

WHO WERE SOME OF THE FAMOUS MEN AND WOMEN OF HISTORY WHO HAVE STAYED HERE AT THE BAUR AU LAC?

THE EMPRESS OF AUSTRIA, ELIZABETH, CALLED SISI, AND SHE STAYED WITH US JUST BEFORE HER TRIP TO GENEVA WHERE SHE WAS MURDERED A FEW DAYS LATER.

SOME MUSICIANS STAYED HERE AS WELL.

MUSICIANS, YES.

WAGNER AND LISZT.

THE 2 MET HERE, AND THE FAMOUS "VALKYRIES" WAS WRITTEN HERE IN THIS LOBBY RIGHT HERE.

["RIDE OF THE VALKYRIES" PLAYING] [MAN SINGING SOLO] Maxa: FOR A TRIP BACK IN TIME, WE'RE VISITING MEDIEVAL EINSIEDELN, ABOUT 22 MILES SOUTH OF ZURICH.

SWITZERLAND'S MOST IMPORTANT PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE, EINSIEDELN HAS BEEN DRAWING BELIEVERS FOR CENTURIES THANKS TO THIS BEAUTIFUL BAROQUE ABBEY AND A PIOUS HERMIT NAMED ST. MEINRAD.

FATHER BASEL, CAN YOU TELL ME A LITTLE OF THE HISTORY OF THIS ABBEY?

1,200 YEARS AGO, ST. MEINRAD, A MONK OF THE ABBEY OF REICHENAU, CAME HERE TO LIVE AS A HERMIT TO SEARCH FOR GOD WITH ALL HIS TIME AND HIS STRENGTH.

AND HE LIVED HERE FOR 25 YEARS.

Maxa: WHEN THE HERMIT WAS KILLED BY ROBBERS, THE STORY OF HIS MURDER SPREAD THROUGHOUT EUROPE.

BEFORE LONG, RELIGIOUS PILGRIMS BEGAN TRAVELING HERE TO SHOW RESPECT FOR THE SLAIN MAN.

LATER, A COMMUNITY OF MONKS FOUNDED A BENEDICTINE MONASTERY ON THIS SITE, AND WHAT WAS ONCE A HUMBLE HERMITAGE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FOREST GREW INTO A BAROQUE EXPLOSION OF RELIGIOUS FERVOR.

EVERY AFTERNOON AT 4:30, THE MONKS OF THE ABBEY GATHER TO SING LATIN VESPERS.

[MEN SINGING] ST. MEINRAD WAS ESPECIALLY DEVOTED TO THE BLESSED VIRGIN, AND THE ABBEY BECAME FAMOUS AS THE HOME TO A STATUE OF THE BLACK MADONNA.

Father Basel: THE STATUE IS STANDING THERE IN THE TEMPLE SINCE MANY CENTURIES, AND IT GOT BLACK THROUGH THE CANDLES, OIL LAMPS, INCENSE.

AND THEN AFTER--THE STATUE HAD TO BE RESCUED BEFORE THE FRENCH SOLDIERS.

IN THE 18th CENTURY, IT WAS BROUGHT BACK.

THEY CLEANED IT, BUT PEOPLE WEREN'T USED TO IT.

SO THAT'S WHY THEY PAINTED IT BLACK.

[MEN SINGING IN LATIN] Maxa: ONE OF EINSIEDELN'S SPECIAL TRADITIONS IS GINGERBREAD, MADE HERE AT THE "GOLDAPFEL" BAKERY.

THIS HAS BEEN A THRIVING BUSINESS SINCE THE LATE 19th CENTURY.

WHILE MOST OF THE PASTRIES LOOK QUITE DELICATE, THE BAKERY'S ORIGINAL BREAD HAS A REAL STICK-TO-YOUR-RIBS QUALITY.

PILGRIMS VISITING THE TOWN'S ABBEY RELIED ON IT TO SUSTAIN THEM ON THEIR JOURNEY HOME.

THIS IS ACTUALLY A MUSEUM AS WELL AS A WORKING BAKERY, AND THE KITCHEN IS LOADED WITH OLD WOODEN MOLDS, UNUSUAL COOKING IMPLEMENTS, AND HEAVENLY AROMAS.

NEXT WE'RE DRIVING TO LAKE GENEVA, NESTLED IN FRENCH-SPEAKING SWITZERLAND.

WE WANT TO INVESTIGATE CHRISTMAS FUN IN THE STRING OF CITIES THAT LINE THE LAKE: MONTREUX, LAUSANNE, AND GENEVA.

SWITZERLAND'S BEEN DUBBED "EUROPE'S WINTER PLAYGROUND," THANKS TO THE COUNTRY'S MORE THAN 200 FIRST-CLASS SKI AREAS.

SEVERAL ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE FROM THE LAKE GENEVA AREA, INCLUDING THE FAMOUS RESORTS AT VILLARS AND GSTAAD.

GLACIER 3000, NEAR THE TOWN OF LES DIABLERETS, OFFERS SPECTACULAR ALPINE SCENERY AND RELIABLE SNOW COVER.

WHAT SELF-RESPECTING SKIER HASN'T DREAMED OF SCHUSSING DOWN SWISS SLOPES UNDER CLEAR ALPINE SKIES?

ALTHOUGH THE SKI SEASON DOESN'T USUALLY GET INTO FULL SWING UNTIL AFTER CHRISTMAS, IN DECEMBER YOU CAN STILL SATISFY YOUR CRAVING FOR SOME SNOWY FUN.

AND IF SKIING IS TOO MUCH EXERTION, OR YOU JUST WANT A NOVEL HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE, TRY DOG SLEDDING!

THE FLAT COUNTRYSIDE NEAR GLACIER 3000 OFFERS IDEAL CONDITIONS FOR DOG SLEDDING.

HERE YOU CAN HOP ON A SLED PULLED BY 25 HUSKIES READY AND RARIN' TO GO.

WHILE THE SWISS ALPS HAVE TRADITIONALLY BEEN ASSOCIATED WITH THE RESCUE WORK OF ST. BERNARD DOGS, TODAY TEAMS OF HUSKIES ARE RIGHT AT HOME IN THESE SNOWY MOUNTAINS.

AND THE CHANCE TO INTERACT WITH THESE ANIMALS IS A SPECIAL TREAT FOR DOG LOVERS.

THE ENERGETIC PUPS HAVE A NATURAL URGE TO RUN, AND IT'S FASCINATING TO EXPERIENCE FIRST-HAND THIS RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ANIMAL AND HUMAN.

MONTREUX, LAKE GENEVA'S CHIEF RESORT, SITS LIKE AN AMPHITHEATER ON THE SHORE.

THOUGH GENERALLY QUIET DURING THE WINTER, THIS WEEK MONTREUX IS JAMMED WITH VISITORS HERE TO ENJOY THE CITY'S FAMOUS CHRISTMAS FAIR.

MONTREUX'S FAIR FEATURES MORE THAN 100 WOODEN CHALET-STYLE STALLS THAT LINE THE CITY'S WATERFRONT.

[CALLIOPE MUSIC PLAYING] BONJOUR.

JOYEUX NOEL.

BONJOUR.

Maxa: THESE COLORFUL CRAFTS HAVE A MORE TRADITIONAL, HANDMADE APPROACH COMPARED TO THE MODERN GIFTS YOU SEE IN ZURICH.

AMONG THE THOUSANDS OF TREASURES YOU'LL LIKELY FIND LOTS OF CARVED WOOD, CERAMICS AND, OF COURSE, ORNAMENTS IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES.

AND FOR THE FOOD LOVERS ON YOUR LIST, THE MONTREUX FAIR IS KNOWN FOR ITS DELICIOUS BAKED GOODS, SMOKED MEATS, AND SOME VERY GENEROUS HELPINGS OF LOCAL DISHES SUCH AS SAUSAGES, POTATOES AND SAUERKRAUT.

[HORNS BLOWING TUNE] NOW THAT I'VE SEEN A FEW THINGS I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS, I'M OFF IN SEARCH OF SANTA CLAUS.

A COGWHEEL TRAIN DEPARTS EVERY HOUR FOR THE SCENIC MOUNTAIN LOOKOUT OF ROCHER-DE-NAYE.

IT TAKES VISITORS UP THE STEEP SLOPES THROUGH SNOWY, FAIRY-TALE SCENERY.

AT AN ALTITUDE OF 6,500 FEET, WE'RE AFFORDED A SPLENDID PANORAMA OF THE ALPS.

AND TUCKED ON THE EDGE OF THIS MOUNTAIN SUMMIT, WE FIND A LITTLE HOUSE THAT HOLDS SANTA'S OFFICES.

SANTA, KNOWN HERE AS "FATHER CHRISTMAS" OR "PERE NOEL", LISTENS PATIENTLY AS THE CHILDREN SHARE WITH HIM THEIR MOST CHERISHED CHRISTMAS DREAMS.

AND NATURALLY, PERE NOEL WELCOMES VISITS FROM KIDS OF ALL AGES.

THE CHATEAU OF CHILLON IS MONTREUX'S GREAT LANDMARK, AND TONIGHT IT'S ALL DECKED OUT FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

THIS GRAND CASTLE WAS ONCE THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE FRENCH COUNTS OF SAVOY, WHO CONTROLLED THE AREA IN THE MIDDLE AGES.

TONIGHT A LIGHTING ARTIST HAS ILLUMINATED THE NORMALLY GRAY FORTRESS IN THE COLORS OF THE SWISS FLAG.

THE DRAMATIC LIGHTING REALLY MAKES THIS 13th-CENTURY CASTLE STAND OUT AGAINST THE NIGHT SKY.

LAUSANNE, PERCHED NIMBLY ON THE NORTH SHORE OF LAKE GENEVA, MAY BE SWITZERLAND'S MOST PHOTOGENIC CITY.

FOR CENTURIES, LAUSANNE'S BEEN A POPULAR DESTINATION FOR PHILOSOPHERS, EXPATRIATES, AND EXILES.

THE CITY GAINED A BRILLIANT REPUTATION DURING THE AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT, WHEN MANY PROMINENT 18th-CENTURY WRITERS CONGREGATED HERE.

LAUSANNE'S SOCIAL SCENE INCLUDED SUCH NOTABLES AS ROUSSEAU AND VOLTAIRE.

WHEN CHARLES DICKENS LIVED HERE IN 1846, THACKERAY AND TENNYSON STOPPED IN FOR A VISIT.

AND T.S.

ELIOT WROTE "THE WASTELAND" HERE IN 1922.

HOME TO A MAJOR UNIVERSITY, LAUSANNE HAS PLENTY OF RESTAURANTS, HOTELS, AND SHOPPING.

SWITZERLAND WOULDN'T BE SWITZERLAND WITHOUT CHOCOLATE, AND DURIG CHOCOLATIER PRODUCES TEMPTING HANDMADE CHOCOLATES USING THE PUREST INGREDIENTS.

WHAT MAKES SWISS CHOCOLATE SO SPECIAL?

WELL, SWISS CHOCOLATE IS MADE FROM THE BEST COCOA BEANS, AND THE SECRET OF GOOD CHOCOLATE IS ALL IN THE COCOA BEAN.

Maxa: AND WHAT MAKES YOUR CHOCOLATE SPECIAL IN SWITZERLAND?

WE SPECIALIZE IN VERY DARK, NOT-TOO-SWEET CHOCOLATE, WHICH IS ALSO MADE FROM THE BEST CRIOLLA COCOA BEANS.

DIFFERENT BEANS HAVE DIFFERENT FLAVORS AND DIFFERENT LEVELS OF ACIDITY OR BITTERNESS.

THE BEST COCOA BEANS ARE NOT TOO BITTER, BUT ARE VERY STRONG.

Maxa: AT CHRISTMAS TIME, YOU'LL FIND SPECIALTIES LIKE THESE CHOCOLATE SANTAS AND NATIVITY SCENES-- ALWAYS A HIT WITH THE CHOCOHOLIC ON YOUR LIST, LIKE ME.

THE CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME IS SWITZERLAND'S LARGEST CHURCH AND SOME WOULD SAY ITS GRANDEST.

EACH EVENING, FROM 10 P.M. TO 2 A.M., THE CATHEDRAL'S NIGHT WATCHMAN CLIMBS TO THE TOP OF THE BELL TOWER.

THERE HE CALLS OUT THE HOUR FROM ALL 4 SIDES OF THE CHURCH: NORTH, SOUTH, EAST, AND WEST.

[CALLING OUT IN FRENCH] HE FAITHFULLY PERFORMS THIS TASK 365 DAYS A YEAR.

THE TRADITION WAS TO INFORM THE PEOPLE WHEN A FIRE WAS STARTING AND RING THE ALARM BELL.

YOU HAVE TO IMAGINE THE SURROUNDINGS OF THE CATHEDRAL, THE HOUSES WERE ONLY ON WOOD.

SO, PEOPLE WERE COOKING WITH FIRE AND AT NIGHT THEY HAD CANDLES.

SO THE RISK OF FIRE WAS QUITE HIGH.

Maxa: THIS SPECIAL LAUSANNE TRADITION HAS LASTED FOR 600 YEARS.

HOTELS IN THE LAKE GENEVA AREA TEND TO BE ON THE PRICEY SIDE, BUT YOU'LL FIND PLENTY OF SELECTION.

IN LAUSANNE, A PLACE TO CELEBRATE THE HOLIDAYS IN STYLE IS THE BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE.

THE HOTEL'S BEEN A HIT WITH GLAMOROUS TYPES SINCE THE DAYS WHEN GARY COOPER AND NOEL COWARD STAYED HERE.

NOW, IF YOU LIKE THE IDEA STAYING RIGHT IN THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN GENEVA, YOU MIGHT CONSIDER THE HOTEL EDELWEISS.

IT'S A LITTLE LESS EXPENSIVE, AND THE CHALET DECOR MAKES IT A COZY CHOICE FOR A WINTER HOLIDAY.

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND'S SECOND-LARGEST CITY, HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN FOR ITS TOLERANCE AND PROGRESSIVE ATTITUDES.

THE ORIGINAL HOME OF THE LEAGUE OF NATIONS, GENEVA'S ALSO THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE INTERNATIONAL RED CROSS.

WE'RE JUST IN TIME TO LEARN ABOUT GENEVA'S UNIQUE WINTER CELEBRATION: ESCALADE.

THIS FESTIVAL OCCURS EVERY DECEMBER TO COMMEMORATE A HISTORICAL EVENT THAT HAPPENED HERE 400 YEARS AGO-- THE VICTORY OF GENEVA'S CITIZENS OVER INVADING SAVOYARD SOLDIERS.

[FIFE AND DRUM PLAYING] ESCALADE MEANS "SCALING."

IN 1602, THE DUKE OF SAVOY HATCHED A PLAN TO ATTACK GENEVA AND RETURN THE CALVINIST CITY TO CATHOLICISM.

WHEN THE DUKE'S MEN ATTEMPTED TO SCALE THE CITY WALLS USING LADDERS, THE LOCALS DEFENDED THEIR CITY WITH WHATEVER WAS ON HAND-- ARTILLERY, KNIVES, AND, IN THE CASE OF ONE WOMAN, A POT OF BOILING SOUP.

YES, MADAME ROYAUME DROVE OFF ENEMY SOLDIERS BY THROWING HOT VEGETABLE SOUP CALLED "MARMITE" INTO THE STREET BENEATH HER WINDOW.

EACH YEAR, THE LOCALS HERE DON 17th-CENTURY CLOTHING AND SIP CUPS OF HOT SOUP IN HONOR OF MADAME ROYAUME'S BRAZEN BROTH.

ONCE A YEAR, IN HONOR OF ESCALADE, CITY OFFICIALS OPEN UP A HIDDEN PASSAGEWAY IN GENEVA'S MEDIEVAL CITY WALLS.

Man: WELL, IN FACT, AS YOU CAN SEE, THIS IS THE WAY WHICH LEADS IN THE WALL SYSTEM SURROUNDING THE CITY TO A PLACE WHERE YOU CAN FIGHT FOR THE PROTECTION AND THE DEFENSE OF THE CITY.

Maxa: THESE DAYS, MADAME ROYAUME'S SCALDING SOUP IS MEMORIALIZED IN A MORE TANTALIZING WAY WITH KETTLES MADE FROM CHOCOLATE AND FILLED WITH MARZIPAN.

THROUGHOUT THE CITY, CHOCOLATIERS AND BAKERIES CREATE THESE CHOCOLATE SOUP CAULDRONS AND FILL THEM UP WITH MARZIPAN VEGETABLES.

AND SINCE TOSSING CAULDRONS FROM WINDOWS IS NO LONGER ENCOURAGED, THE LOCALS HAVE DEVELOPED A NEW CUSTOM.

UN, DEUX, TROIS.

AFTER A HEARTY DINNER IN A FAVORITE RESTAURANT, THE CHILDREN OF THE FAMILY HAPPILY SMASH THE CHOCOLATE POTS ON THE TABLE.

THEN EVERYONE JOINS IN TO EAT THE CHOCOLATE SHARDS AND CANDY VEGETABLES.

THE SNOW IS HANGING HEAVILY ON THE EVERGREENS AND CHRISTMAS IS NEARLY HERE.

THERE'S NOTHING QUITE LIKE IMMERSING YOURSELF IN HOLIDAY TRADITIONS TO TRULY APPRECIATE ANOTHER CULTURE.

WITH MAJESTIC ALPS AS A BACKDROP AND HANDMADE ORNAMENTS TO BRIGHTEN THE EARLY DUSK, SWITZERLAND IS BOUND TO FILL YOUR HEART WITH HOLIDAY CHEER.

SO, GRAB YOUR MITTENS AND WARM UP THAT CAROLING VOICE!

THERE'S SHOPPING, SKIING, SPICED CIDER, AND A SWISS WINTER WONDERLAND JUST WAITING FOR YOU.

I GUARANTEE IT'LL BE A CHRISTMAS EXPERIENCE YOU'LL NEVER FORGET.

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